Arrow Spine: The Backbone of the
Arrow
If
you've ever gone fishing, you probably already understand this
concept. Would you take your heavyweight fishing-rod when you go
Bluegill and Perch fishing? Of course not. It's simply too stiff
for the job and would perform poorly. A stiff rod doesn't cast
light baits very well, and dragging in small pan fish on a
heavyweight rod would be no fun anyway. On the other hand, you
wouldn't dare take your ultra-lite fishing-rod for an afternoon of
shark fishing either. The ultra-lite rod wouldn't be stiff enough
to fight such large fish, and it might even break if you hooked a
good one. Right? For arrow selection, the concept is essentially
the same - the arrow must have the appropriate strength and
stiffness for the task - not too stiff - not too limber.
The
official term is "spine"- as in backbone. Not "spline" - as in
gears and sprockets. Arrow spine refers to the arrow's degree of
stiffness - how much the arrow resists being bent. Some arrows are
very stiff, others are very limber. And if you ever intend to
achieve serious accuracy with your compound bow, you'll need to
choose an arrow that's just stiff enough - but not too stiff for
your particular bow setup. You may have noticed that most arrows
come in different sizes denoted by some kind of number system: Gold
Tip 5575's, Beman 400's, A/C/C 3-60's, Carbon Express 4560's, etc.
While each manufacturer's number system is often different, the
important thing to note is that the number on the arrow specifies
the spine (the stiffness) of that particular shaft, and doesn't
necessarily denote the exact draw weight of the bow from which it
should be shot. For example, don't assume a Gold Tip 3555 will only
work in bows ranging from 35# to 55# of draw weight. That may or
may not be the case. The actual stiffness (static spine) of
the shaft material is only one factor in determining the effective,
or dynamic, spine of your finished arrow.
And don't assume spine sizes transfer from one brand to the other.
In some brands, higher numbers represent the stiffest spine sizes.
In other brands, lower numbers represent the stiffest, and in some
cases the advertised spine is the actual measured deflection
(Easton Arrows for example). So don't assume if "300" is your spine
size in one brand that it will be the same in the next brand. Each
manufacturer has their own system. Be sure to check the individual
manufacturer's charts (more on this in a moment) before you decide
which spine size is right for you.
|
Arrow Spine: Why Does it Matter?
A
properly spined arrow is simply safer, and flies better than an
improperly spined arrow. To begin, if an arrow is too weak
(underspined) for a particular bow, there is a risk that the arrow
could break when shot. The more grossly underspined the arrow, the
higher the risk of breakage. In a few rare instances, arrow
failures have even resulted in serious injuries. If your arrow
breaks upon release, there is a remote possibility that the
remaining half of the arrow could be driven through your hand or
arm. Ouch!!! To avoid the embarrassment of ever needing to explain
to an emergency room doctor how you managed to shoot yourself with
your own bow, we strongly suggest you NEVER shoot an arrow that's
underspined for your bow.
But aside from avoiding the freak accidents, choosing a proper arrow
spine will give you the best possible arrow flight and result in
dramatically improved accuracy. Most people think an arrow flies
just like it looks when at rest - perfectly straight. Hence the
phrase "straight as an arrow". But nothing could be further from
the truth. Once fired from a bow, an arrow immediately begins
flexing and oscillating. That's not a defect. Arrows are supposed
to flex and bend some. In fact, with respect to accuracy, an
overspined (too stiff) arrow actually flies just as badly as an
underspined (too limber) arrow. So don't choose an overly stiff
arrow either, tough guy. Choosing an over- or underspined arrow
yields absolutely no benefit - regardless of what you hunt or how
you shoot.
Each arrow bends and flexes in a particular cycle as it leaves the
bow (archer's paradox). In slow-motion video it becomes obvious -
especially for finger shooters. An overspined arrow undercycles and
leaves the bow with it's tail too close to the bow's riser usually
resulting in serious fletching contact as it passes the arrow rest.
An underspined arrow overcycles and the arrow's tail leaves the bow
too far away from the riser with similar results the opposite way.
Arrows fired with a mechanical release often cycle more vertically
rather than horizontally, but the business of timing the cycle is
still the same. When the spine is just perfect, the fletchings zip
through the rest unimpeded and the arrow flies.....uh,
well.......straight as an arrow. So we have to get the spine right.
|
What Factors Affect Arrow Spine?
.
There are
three main ingredients we'll need to stir-in when
trying to brew up the perfect arrow spine:
(1) the stiffness of the actual shaft material
(2) the length of the shaft
(3) the tip weight that will be used
But it's not quite as simple as 1-2-3. How stiff an
arrow is when it's sitting still on the workbench, and
when it's busy accelerating from 0-180 mph as it's fired
from the bow, are totally different issues. When the
arrow is at rest, we refer to it's stiffness
characteristics as static spine. But when that
same arrow is in motion, it's stiffness is a matter of
dynamic spine - which adds more ingredients into
our consideration pot. So pay attention. This one will
be on the quiz. |
 |
STATIC SPINE OF THE SHAFT
MATERIAL
.
Let's start with static spine. If you support an arrow shaft
at two points a given distance apart, then hang a weight in the
middle of the arrow - the weight will cause the arrow shaft to sag.
The shaft's resistance to being bent this way is known as it's
static spine. The actual static spine
of the arrow shaft is determined by the elasticity of the materials
in the shaft and the geometry of the shaft. In multi-layered arrows
(carbon/aluminum, etc.) the bonding materials also contribute to the
static spine. The inside diameter, the cross-section shape,
and the thickness of the material all contribute to the static
spine of the shaft material. However, arrows don't
perform under static conditions - like a floor joist or a
curtain-rod. Arrows perform under dynamic conditions, with
motion. A hanging weight doesn't really represent how forces are
applied to arrows when they're actually shot, so static spine
is really used as only a benchmark for predicting dynamic spine.
DYNAMIC SPINE OF THE SHAFT
.
Unless your arrow shaft breaks or is altered, it's static
spine remains the same. But your arrow's dynamic spine
can change dramatically. The real mean-n-potatoes of arrow
performance relies on the arrow's dynamic spine. The
dynamic spine is how the arrow actually bends when shot - and
there are many factors which affect the dynamic spine. The
static spine of the shaft is only part of the equation. When
you shoot an arrow, the explosive force of the bow compresses the
shaft and the shaft momentarily bends under the strain. Unlike the
unwavering characteristics of an arrow's static spine, the
dynamic spine of two identical arrows, shot from two different
bows of varying output, could be drastically different. How's that
possible? If your arrow has a perfect amount of dynamic spine
when shot from your modern 70# hard-cam bow - it's stiffness is just
right - not too limber - not too stiff. BUT, if you take that same
arrow and shoot it out of your son's 40# youth bow, it will be
dramatically too stiff. The arrow will have too much dynamic
spine. Likewise, if you shot your son's arrows in your 70# bow,
it's likely the arrows would be dramatically too limber - not enough
dynamic spine. Determining a proper dynamic spine is
a bit more complex and requires examination of several contributing
factors. So hang in there. We're almost through.
SHAFT LENGTH AFFECTS ARROW SPINE
.
An
arrow shaft bends, not because it is being pulled down in the
middle, but because it is being pushed inward from the ends. It is
being compressed when it's shot. And the longer the shaft,
the more easily a compressive force can bend it. Imagine a brand
new pencil. If you put each end of the pencil between your palms
and began compressing the pencil by squeezing your palms together,
this would be similar to the forces that cause an arrow to bend when
shot. So, with your standard length pencil, could you push your
hands together hard enough to make the pencil bend? Probably not.
A
short pencil is surprisingly stiff and resists bending this way.
But if that same pencil were 2 ft long, you could bend it easily
by compressing it. Under a compressive load, the longer pencil had
less spine than the short one, even though the shaft material
(the wooden pencil) remained the same - with the same static
spine per given length. Again, same concept applies for
arrows. Longer arrows have less spine (more limber), shorter
arrows have more (stiffer).
.
TIP WEIGHT
AFFECTS ARROW SPINE
.
Every arrow should have a tip. The tip is the
business end of the arrow. It could be a simple
steel practice point, a razor sharp hunting broadhead, a
small-game judo tip, or a number of other tips designed
for a variety of purposes. Each of these arrow tips is
also designed to a specific grain weight. The most
popular weights are 75gr, 85gr, 90gr, 100gr, and 125gr.
However, some specialty tips can be much lighter or
heavier.
OK. Now remember how a bow compresses the arrow shaft?
It's not hard to figure out what's pushing in one
direction - the forward movement of the bow's string.
That's an easy one. But what force pushes back the
other direction? You can't get that kind of compression
if you don't have two opposing forces - one pushing on
each end of the shaft, right?
. |

|
Right!
So what pushes on the other end? Oddly enough, it's the
arrow's TIP. Of course, the tip doesn't actively do
anything. It's just a weight - hanging out at the end
of the shaft. But surely you must remember learning
about Newton's Laws of Motion in school, eh? Remember
the one that says "An object at rest tends to stay at
rest unless acted upon by a force"? AH-HA! Well
think of it this way. The arrow's tip is the
"object at rest", and the forward movement of the
string is the "force". The stationary mass of the
arrow resists the forward motion of the string, and
since the heavy tip of the arrow is where most of the
arrow's mass is concentrated, that's the area of the
arrow that resists the most. So the resistance of the
heavy stationary tip and the forward motion of the
string create opposing forces
and.....Viola!....compression.
So, the greater the tip weight, the greater the
compression (and flexing) of the the arrow shaft when
shot. The lighter the tip, the lesser the compression
(and flexing) of the arrow shaft when shot. See where
we're going? You guessed it. A heavy tip DECREASES an
arrow's dynamic spine (makes it act more limber). A
lighter tip INCREASES an arrow's dynamic spine (makes it
act more stiff).
This concept is a bit more abstract, so consider a
dramatic example to illustrate the concept. Imagine if
you screwed a bowling ball on the end of an arrow and
tried to shoot it. Upon firing the bow, the arrow shaft
would bend dramatically as it grudgingly inched forward,
trying to get the heavy stationary mass of the bowling
ball into motion. The arrow would be highly compressed
between the forward movement of the string and slowly
accelerating mass of the bowling ball.
MACHO "BIG-MAN" TIP WEIGHTS
In sections #4-5, we'll discuss the topic of tip weight
selection and explore it's effects on arrow mass,
front-of-center balance, loss of shot trajectory, and
kinetic energy in greater detail. But for now, it's
worth noting that many archers choose a ridiculously
heavy tip weight for their hunting arrows. There's
often no logic behind the selection, other than the
macho idea that bigger is better, and the often
distorted and misunderstood notion that heavier tips
"hit harder". So don't get too puffed-up bragging about
how you "always do better when shootin' them big XXX
grain super-ultra-magnum broadheads". With today's
hot new compound bows often pumping out 50, 60, even 70+
ft-lbs of kinetic energy, much of the "old school"
thinking about hefty arrow tip weight is no longer
applicable.
|
.
BOW OUTPUT AFFECTS DYNAMIC ARROW SPINE
.
If all this talk of spine is becoming a real pain in the neck, don't
worry. We have just a couple more details to cover, then we'll sum
up the discussion on arrow spine.
The physical features of the arrow (the shaft's static spine, the
shaft length, and the arrow's tip weight) all play a part in giving
the arrow it's spine characteristics. But as we mentioned earlier,
the arrows final dynamic spine (how much it will actually
flex when shot) will also depend greatly on the output of the bow.
Your draw weight, draw length, cam-type, let-off percentage, and bow
efficiency all contribute to the actual output of the bow. And bows
with more powerful outputs will require stiffer arrows to achieve
the proper dynamic spine when shot. Bows will less powerful
output will require more limber shafts.
Fortunately, the engineers have already crunched the numbers for
us. In just a few moments we'll take a look at a sample spine-size
selection chart. You won't need to solve any equations or plot any
graphs today. But before we go to the charts, you should understand
which attributes affect the output of a bow and the spine
requirements of the arrow. Most arrow manufacturers publish charts
which take some, or all, of these bow output factors into account
when recommending a particular arrow spine size.
|
Less
Spine Required |
More
Spine Required |
| Lighter
Draw Weight |
Heavier
Draw Weight |
| Shorter
Draw Length |
Longer
Draw Length |
| Lighter
Tip Weight |
Heavier
Tip Weight |
| Less
Aggressive Cam |
More
Aggressive Cam |
| More
Let-Off % |
Less
Let-Off % |
| Less
Efficient Bow |
More
Efficient Bow |
APPLYING SOME COMMON SENSE
As
we said, some manufacturers have very complex charts that take many
variables into account. But other manufacturers offer a more
simplified chart, like the one on the left, that just represents an
average bow setup. So you may have to apply a little common sense
if your particular bow setup isn't exactly "average". For example:
If you shoot a typical 300 fps compound bow, with normal 100gr tips,
and 60-75% let-off, all you'll need to do is follow the chart. If
your bow is set for 60# and you use 29" arrows, you just follow the
dots on the chart and choose the 200 spine. Easy!
But what if you shoot a very aggressive low let-off speed-bow with
an IBO speed over 330 fps.........say a Bowtech Black Knight or a
Mathews Black Max. In that case, your bow will have more output
than an average 60# bow, so you would need to accommodate by
choosing a little stiffer spine like the 300 shaft. So be prepared
to use your best judgment, should your bow setup have some special
characteristic that needs extra consideration.
.
|
Spine Consistency & Tolerance
One final thought on arrow spine involves manufacturing and materials
consistency. If a manufacturer makes sure that each inch of every arrow
has the exact same thickness and composition, every arrow for a given
size should have exactly the same amount of spine. Every arrow should
be the same in the front, the middle, and the rear. Every arrow should
resist the same when bent in any direction. And every arrow in a
particular set should share that same uniform consistency and tolerances
such that every shaft is exactly alike.
Of course, few carbon arrows can make this particular brag. Some carbon
shafts, particularly entry-level carbon shafts, have some
inconsistencies in their spine, both throughout an individual shaft and
within an entire set from shaft to shaft. The differences may be small,
but each small variation can affect arrow flight. Not all carbon arrow
manufacturers list their spine tolerance data. Most are content to
simply state they have a "consistent spine" and leave it at that.
Much like the issue of straightness, most archers do not have the skill
and proficiency to tell the difference - since the variances may be
slight and subtle. But this issue is worth considering if you're truly
searching for the ultimate arrow. To help minimize these
inconsistencies, we suggest you choose the best shafts you can afford
from a well-known manufacturer. If your favorite manufacturer does not
publish their consistency and tolerance data, contact the arrow
manufacturer for additional specifications.
Step Right Up: Another Sample
Arrow Spine Chart
Here is another example of an arrow spine chart, created to help you
select an appropriate arrow spine for your setup. For this example, we
have reproduced the charts from the popular Gold Tip brand of carbon
arrows. Gold Tip's hunting arrows come in 4 basic spine sizes: 3555,
5575, 7595, and Big Game 100's. Stop! Hold it right there! If you
just got the idea that the "Big Game" size must be the right size for
you - because you hunt big game like deer, elk, moose, bear, etc.,
un-think that thought now. "Big Game 100's" is just a model name. They
could have called it the 95115 shaft. "Big Game" only indicates the
arrow's spine stiffness, NOT what you're supposed to hunt with it
necessarily.
In the Gold Tip spine sequence, the 3555 is the most limber shaft (and
the lightest), and the Big Game is the stiffest shaft (and heaviest).
Study the chart for a moment. Notice how an increase in draw weight,
arrow length, or tip weight all increase the spine stiffness
recommendation. Conversely, decreasing the draw weight, arrow length,
or tip weight will decrease the spine stiffness recommendation.
. |
|
n=3555
n=5575
n=7595
n=Big
Game
|
85g
Tips |
Arrow
Length |
|
Draw Weight |
25" |
26" |
27" |
28" |
29" |
30" |
31" |
32" |
|
30-35# |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
|
35-40# |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
|
40-45# |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
|
45-50# |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
|
50-55# |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
|
55-60# |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
|
60-65# |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
|
65-70# |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
|
70-75# |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
|
75-80# |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
|
80-85# |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
|
85-90# |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
|
90-100# |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
|
n=3555
n=5575
n=7595
n=Big
Game
|
100g
Tips |
Arrow
Length |
|
Draw Weight |
25" |
26" |
27" |
28" |
29" |
30" |
31" |
32" |
|
30-35# |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
|
35-40# |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
|
40-45# |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
|
45-50# |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
|
50-55# |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
|
55-60# |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
|
60-65# |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
|
65-70# |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
|
70-75# |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
|
75-80# |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
|
80-85# |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
|
85-90# |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
|
90-100# |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
|
n=3555
n=5575
n=7595
n=Big
Game
|
125g
Tips |
Arrow
Length |
|
Draw Weight |
25" |
26" |
27" |
28" |
29" |
30" |
31" |
32" |
|
30-35# |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
|
35-40# |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
|
40-45# |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
|
45-50# |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
|
50-55# |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
|
55-60# |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
|
60-65# |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
|
65-70# |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
|
70-75# |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
|
75-80# |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
|
80-85# |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
|
85-90# |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
|
90-100# |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
n |
|
|
|
. |
|
|
A FINAL THOUGHT ABOUT
ARROW SPINE
.
Remember that changing your bow's draw weight or draw length will change
the energy output of your bow. If you order arrows to match your 70#
bow, then later decide to turn the bow down to 60#, your arrows will
likely be too stiff. Before you order your new custom arrows, make sure
you're comfortable with your bow's current draw length and weight. If
you're a pathological tinkerer, a growing youth archer, or you're
"working up" to a heavier draw weight, you may need multiple arrow sets
with more than one spine size to ensure you get the best arrow flight
throughout your "transitional periods".
.
|
Chapter 3 Summary:
Before moving on, you should be
clear on the following:
1. What is arrow spine?
2. Why is arrow spine important for achieving proper arrow flight?
3. What factors affect arrow spine?
4. What is the difference in static and dynamic arrow spine?
5. What is spine tolerance?
6. When might you NOT take a spine chart's recommendation?
7. Which Gold Tip spine would be most appropriate for your current bow
setup?
|
|

Section #3 Complete
Move on to the Next Section |
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