CHAPTER 1: Basics &
Measurement Standards
Proper Arrows are Essential
If you're one of the many bowhunters who select arrows each
season by just grabbing a handful from the miscellaneous arrow
bucket at the local super-mart, you may be surprised to learn
that you've been cheating yourself. Shooting the proper
arrows will greatly improve your accuracy and success in the
field - and for less money than you might think. If you want
reliable and accurate performance from your compound bow, your
arrow must be specifically matched to YOUR bow setup. There is
no such thing as a "one size fits all" arrow. An
improperly sized and/or poorly constructed arrow will not only
fly erratically, profoundly degrading your accuracy, but it may
present a safety hazard for you and your expensive compound bow.
If you are serious about bowhunting, you owe it to yourself (and
the game you pursue) to shoot the right ammunition.
Modern archery is a technical sport. So there are a
number of technical considerations to juggle when selecting
arrows: proper spine, FOC balance, weight, straightness,
fletching material, fletching angle, arrow length, etc. And if
you're feeling a bit lost, don't worry. This isn't exactly
rocket-science - our selection guide will provide you with all
the information you'll need to choose the right arrows for your
bow. These next sections will take you step-by-step
through the process of selecting and ordering custom carbon
arrows for YOUR bow system. We hope you find this help
section useful.
Parts of an Arrow
Let start with the basics. The parts of a modern hunting arrow
are pretty straight forward, but these parts will be referred to
throughout this help guide. So before we really get going here,
let's take a moment to bone-up on our arrow jargon.
|
 |
The foundation of
every arrow is the SHAFT, a long hollow tube usually made of
aluminum or carbon/graphite composite materials. The rear of
the arrow is fitted with a small piece of molded plastic called
a NOCK, which allows the arrow to physically attach to the bow's
string. At the front of the arrow is a small aluminum
(sometimes plastic) sleeve called an INSERT. The insert gets
glued into the end of the shaft and provides a threaded hole in
which to screw in the arrow's TIP. A tip doesn't necessarily
have to be a practice point (as pictured here). A standard
insert allows you to screw-in and use of a variety of tips in
the same arrow (broadheads, judo-points, blunt-tips, field
points, fishing tips, etc.). The last component is the arrow's
FLETCHING. The arrow's fletching is usually done with colorful
parabolic shaped pieces of soft plastic (vanes) or feathers. In
most cases, the three fletches are glued onto the shaft in an
equally spaced circular pattern, with two fletches one color
(the hen-fletches) and
the the third fletch a different color (the cock-fletch).
Standards of Measurement
The standard AMO Method of measuring an arrow is to find the
distance between the bottom of the
groove of the nock (where the string rests in the
nock) to the end of the arrow's insert,
not including the tip. We measure and trim all
arrows to length using this standard AMO (now the ATA) method.
Be advised that some archery shops, particularly the "basement
bandit" type stores may be unaware of industry AMO standards.
So don't trust anyone else's declared measurement of your
arrows. If you are buying replacements for your existing
arrows, be sure to MEASURE FOR YOURSELF USING AMO STANDARDS
before ordering custom carbon arrows. Once an arrow is
cut, the process can't be undone. So as in carpentry, the
measure twice and cut once philosophy must be observed.
|
 |
If you already have existing
arrows which fit your bow properly, simply measure one by this
method and order the same size. If you are unsure about what
arrow length is appropriate for your bow setup, the next section
may help. If you are already sure about your arrow length, skip the
remainder of this chapter and
Proceed
to Chapter 2. If you are setting up a new rig or
you're just getting started in the sport, please read on.
Measuring the Adjusted Draw Length of the Bow
 The
proper length for your arrow will depend upon several factors:
the draw length of the bow, the type of bow you
have, and the type & position of your arrow rest.
Before we dive into this issue, we should briefly discuss how
the draw length of a bow is measured. Officially - according to the
standard AMO method - a bow's draw length setting can be found
by measuring the distance between the groove of the nock - to a
position 1 3/4" forward from the pivot point of the grip - when
the bow is at full draw. Confused? Not to worry. There's a
simplified method too.
Conveniently enough, for most bows, 1 3/4" forward from the
pivot point of the grip puts you roughly at the outer edge of
the bow's riser. So without splitting too many hairs, we can say
that a bow's draw length is approximately from the nock point to
the front of the riser - when the bow is drawn back. So if you
drew back a 29" arrow, and the insert of the arrow lined-up with
the front edge of the bow's riser, the bow is set for
approximately 29" draw length. Whew! Glad that's covered!
If you're truly an archery junkie, you may have also heard about
the concept of True Draw Length, which is an older and much less
popular method of measurement. Officially, True Draw Length is
the distance at full draw from the nocking point to the low
(pivot) point of the grip. So a True Draw Length measurement
will be 1.75" short of an AMO draw length measurement. There
isn't much talk about True Draw Length these days, and it's fine
point of archery jargon that really isn't worth dissecting. But
if the question ever comes up on Jeopardy, you'll know.
Also, we recommend you not automatically trust the factory
sticker on your bow that indicates draw length.
Measure for yourself. In many cases,
the manufacturer's sticker and the ACTUAL draw length of the bow
can be quite different - sometimes dramatically. And since
changing your draw length may necessitate changing arrows too -
we can avoid some trouble here by thinking ahead. If your bow
does not already fit you comfortably, you should have the draw
length adjusted before ordering your custom arrows. Arrows which
may be perfect for a bow at 29" draw length, may be totally
inappropriate for the same bow set at 27" draw length (much more
on this topic later).
Measuring the Draw Length Requirement of the Shooter
Obviously, the draw length setting of the bow and the required
draw length of the shooter should match. If they don't, we have
some work to do first before thinking about what arrows to
select.
Unlike a traditional recurve bow that can be drawn back to
virtually any length, a compound bow will draw back only a
specific distance before it "stops." Compound bows are designed to
be shot from the full-draw position. If a compound bow is set
for a 29" draw length, it should always be shot from the full
29" draw position. A bow that's set for 29" draw
cannot drawn back to 30"
or 31", without modifying the setup on the bow (or forcibly
overdrawing the bow - a dangerous practice). Similarly, a
compound bow should not be shot from a position less than full
draw either. Where the bow stops, you stop. So if
you're a 29" draw, then your bow should be a 29" draw.
Easy enough!
To measure your draw length, determine the length of your
arm-span in inches. Stand with your arms out and palms facing
forward. Don't stretch when measuring. Just stand naturally.
Have someone else help you, and measure from the tip of one
middle finger to the other. Then simply divide that number by
2.5. The quotient is your approximate draw length (in inches)
for your body size.
The majority of compound bow owners set their bows for too much
draw length, which results in poor shooting form - inaccuracy -
and painful string slap on the forearm. You will better enjoy -
and be more successful with your compound bow when it is fitted
properly to your body. And if in doubt, choose a little LESS
draw length rather than a little more.
If you've heard that longer draw length bows shoot faster, you
heard right. But don't even think of shooting an
excessively long draw length just for the sake of generating
more speed. That's a very poor trade-off which you will
regret. Shooting your bow at an overly long draw length
won't make you more macho. It will just make you miss the
target. So don't do it. Shoot the correct draw
length.
If you are a person of average proportions, your arm-span will
be roughly equal to your height (in inches). So there is often a
direct correlation between a person's height and their draw
length as well. Once you have computed your draw length using
the method above, you can double-check yourself by using the
scale below - to see if your number is within the expected
range.
|
 |
More Draw Length Discussion
 How
close do you need to get? Within an inch? Half-inch? A
quarter-inch? This issue could be debated, as there probably
isn't a right and wrong answer to this question. For most
shooters, a ±½" change in draw length is hardly noticed. To be
realistic, half-inch sizes are probably precise enough (27½",
28", 28½, 29", 29½", etc.), particularly for the purposes of
hunting and recreational archery. Besides, as your bow's string
ages and stretches over time (as ALL strings do), your draw
length will slightly increase - a little fraction at a time. So
constantly maintaining a razor-specific 28 13/16" draw length
may be a frustrating endeavor for you and the pro-shop.
If you're new to the sport, and unsure what draw length is
appropriate for you, we strongly recommend you just play the
averages and use the chart above. But admittedly, there is no
perfect formula to solve this problem. Every shooter is
different and the opinions on the methodology for measuring and
checking draw length varies considerably throughout the
industry: the yardstick against the breastbone, the fist against
the wall, tip of the finger to the top of the shoulder, the
arm-span method, etc. Without the benefit of an actual bow to
draw back and actually check - each of these methods only
provides us with an estimate.
You'll likely find that even the "pros" don't necessarily agree.
If you go into several different archery shops to be measured
for draw length, you're bound to get a variety of "expert"
opinions. So before you get frustrated, remember that
determining an individual's draw length isn't exactly a
measurement of scientific certainty. So if you're just getting
started in the sport, there's no need to get too carried away
computing the square-root of your hypotenuse. Instead, we
recommend you just play the averages and choose an initial draw
length that's similar to others of your same size and stature
(reference the chart above). There will always be time to
"tweak" your draw length a little as you gain experience and
learn to analyze your shooting form more closely. YOU will
ultimately be the final judge on your own perfect personal draw
length. If you're still unsure, read our
Additional Discussion
on Draw Length.
Chapter 1 Summary
Before moving on, you
should be clear on the following:
1. What are the parts of an arrow?
2. What is the proper method for measuring the length of an
arrow?
3. If you already have a properly adjusted bow with matching
arrows, how long are those arrows?
4. How do I determine the actual current AMO draw length
setting of my bow?
For new setups
5. What draw length setting is most appropriate for me and
my particular size?
For new setups
6. Why must the draw length
of the shooter and the draw length of the bow match?
|
