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Arrow Fletching

Glued near the rear of most arrows are 3 (sometimes 4) feathers or plastic vanes, arranged in an equal pattern around the circumference of the shaft.  These parabolic-shaped pieces of material (sometimes collectively called the "fletching") serve to help steer the arrow during flight.  If the tail of the arrow is precisely following the tip during flight, the fletching slices cleanly through the air without changing the arrow's path.  But if the arrow's tail isn't perfectly following the tip, friction occurs between the air and the fast moving fletch - pushing the fletch (and the tail of the arrow) back into proper alignment with the arrow's tip.  So the fletching helps to stabilize and correct the arrow's flight.  Easy enough!

Of course, all fletching materials aren't created equal.  Arrow fletching is available in a number of different shapes, colors, types, thicknesses, lengths, etc.  And they can be applied in different configurations:  straight, offset, or helical (spiral).  So how do we know which ones to pick?  Should we go with feathers?  Or vanes?  Would a bigger fletch do a better job than small ones?  Is one more durable than another? What are the trade-offs?  Well, let's start with the easy ones.

STANDARD VANES (Duravanes/Rubber Based):  Vanes are made of soft flexible plastic and are the popular choice for today's archer.  They're inexpensive, easy to apply, quiet in flight, available in almost any size/color, and they can be easily fletched in a number of different patterns (straight - offset - helical).  Since vanes are impervious to water, they make an excellent all-weather choice for hunting.  In addition, they're also relatively durable.  Vanes can be crumpled and abused (up to a point of course) and they still pop back into shape ... or they can be heat-treated with a hair dryer and made to pop back into shape.  Either way, vanes aren't nearly as delicate as feathers. 

However, compared to feathers of the same size, vanes are heavier - as much as 3X the weight of a comparable length feather.  And since most vanes have a smooth surface, they don't "dig-into" the air as well as the rougher surface of feathers.  So all other things being equal, vanes don't stabilize arrow flight quite as well as feathers.  But don't make too big of a deal out of the vane's limitations.  For the vast majority of applications, they're more than sufficient for the task.



SPECIALTY VANES (Blazer Vanes):  The standard Duravane style vane is an enduring staple item of the industry, and it's the most widely used type of vane, BUT ... someone is always trying to invent a better mousetrap.  So specialty vanes make a splash in the archery market periodically (Quikspin Vanes, Blazer Vanes, Spin Wings, Bi-Delta Vanes, FOB's, etc.).  Of course, the "improved" vane designs tend to come and go over time ... but the one specialty vane that seems to be hanging tough is the increasingly popular Blazer Vane, by The Bohning Company.

The Blazer Vane is a small stiff 2" vane which is more plastic-like (urethane based) than rubber.  Its claim to fame is three-fold.  First, it's a little tougher than rubber-based vanes, so it stands up to Whisker Biscuit abuse without distorting or wrinkling.  Secondly, the surface of the Blazer Vane isn't smooth, it's textured slightly to "bite" into the air better than smooth vanes.  And finally, the manufacturer claims that the unique shape of the vane - specifically the straight leading edge - provides some kind of aerodynamic benefit.

Now, with all that said, we shouldn't get too carried away here.  A 2" vane (regardless of the advertising wizardry and technical hoo-hah) is still a 2" vane - with the surface area of a 2" vane.  So realistically, a claim that 2" Blazers can outperform standard 4" Duravanes might be a technical stretch.  Nonetheless, Blazer Vanes are small, light, look cool, and seem to work well enough.  Over the past few seasons, we've begun to see our customers opting for Blazer Vanes more and more often.  Roughly 32% of our 2009 arrow orders went Blazer.

The only obvious downsides to Blazer Vanes are increased cost (roughly +$5 p/dozen arrows over standard Duravanes) and the fact that they can be very fussy to fletch.  In spite of Bohning's claim that "Blazer Vanes are chemically treated to promote proper adhesion ...," the day to day reality is somewhat different.  After building literally thousands of arrow sets with Blazer Vanes, we can confidently say that fletching Blazer Vanes is a pain in the neck.  If you don't have just the right glue, the right temperature, the right humidity, the right phase of the moon, and the right music playing in the background, they don't stick.  If you're a home fletcher, keep this in mind before you decide to go Blazer.
 


FEATHERS:  Of course, feathers are the original arrow fletching material.  When it comes to design, you just can't deny that mother nature knows best.  First, feathers are very light.  Three 4" Gateway feathers weigh just over 8 grains - compared to 24 grains for three 4" Duravanes.  This means your arrows fly faster with less loss of trajectory downrange.  Feathers also have a natural texture that effectively bites into the wind.  So feathers do a particularly good job at stabilizing large broadheads and finger-released arrows.  And archery feathers have a natural curvature to them (left-wing or right-wing, depending on which side of bird they're from), so they help arrows to spin in flight - which also aides in arrow stabilization.  As a matter of achieving the best possible flight, it's just hard to beat a feather.   

But feathers are not for everyone or every application.  Firstly, feathers are rather expensive.  Basic 4" feathers can cost four to ten times as much as comparable vanes.  But remember, archery feathers aren't a synthetic product - they are made from the primary flight feathers of turkeys (usually).  They must be harvested, cleaned, dyed, cut, sorted, inspected, etc.  As you might imagine, this is a labor-intensive process.  So archery feathers cannot be mass produced with the same kind of speed and automation as plastic vanes.  So they cost more.  And the fancier the feather, the fancier the price tag.

Feathers also require a little more care from the user.  If you rough handle your feather fletched arrows, they won't respond well to the abuse.  Feathers can be bent, crumpled, split, and degraded when they make high-speed contact with other surfaces (like arrow rests).  And while a little steam and finger-rubbing can sometimes resurrect defunct feathers, they just aren't as tough as synthetic vanes.  So you have to treat them well if you want them to last.

Finally, we should mention weather and the feather.  We hear many archers remark that they don't want feathers because of the weather.  This is probably an exaggerated prejudice.  Feathers are certainly an outdoor product, designed for outdoor use.  But not all feathers are the same.  The answer to the question "What happens when a feather gets wet?" depends on what kind of feather you're talking about.  Fluffy down feathers (like in your pillow) will soak-up water and flatten down like wet hair.  But primary flight feathers, like the feathers used for archery, have a much more rigid structure, made from keratin (the same protein found in fingernails), with interlocking rows of barbs, barbules, and hooklets.  This interlocking lattice-work allows primary feathers to generally retain their shapes even when wet.  So don't assume that a wet feather is automatically a ruined feather.  But do consider the weight of the water.  A wet feather obviously weighs more than a dry feather, which means your arrow will weigh more and will fly differently when its feathers are wet. 

If you are the kind of hardcore hunter who might sit for hours in the rain, you might want to consider waterproofing your feathers.  Gateway Feathers offers a waterproofing powder specifically formulated for the task.  Or if you want a quick and easy solution, pick up an $6 can of tent or boot waterproofing spray at Wal-Mart.  Many archers report this works just as well, and only takes a minute to apply.        


Fletching Turn

Another factor that determines the effectiveness of your fletching is the TURN of the fletch.  If your fletching is arranged in a helical (spiral) pattern - like a boat propeller - your arrow will rotate in flight.  Much like a football that's thrown with a perfect spiral, an arrow will fly straighter and be more stable if it rotates in-flight.  Aerodynamically, a helical configuration is clearly a better choice.  However, a helical fletch may not always be appropriate or necessary for your particular bow setup.  For example, some arrow rests will not provide enough clearance to allow a helical fletch to pass thru without contact.  In this case, many archers use an offset fletch, where the vanes are still straight, rather than in a spiral pattern, but they are slightly turned on the shaft to promote some rotation in-flight without compromising fletching clearance.  For very unforgiving arrow rests with limited clearance, or for competition target setups that don't require much stabilization, the straight fletch may be the best option.  Take a look at the diagrams below and the corresponding pro's and con's associated with each fletching configuration.  When you order your arrows, you'll need to select one of these options.

Please note that some types of fletching can only be fletched certain ways.  Feathers generally come in a right-wing or left-wing pre-formed helical shape.  So feather fletching will be right-helical or left-helical.  Forcing a feather into a straight clamp to produce an offset or straight fletch is not recommended.  Also, some specialty vanes, like NAP's Quikspin Vanes, should not be fletched in LH configurations.  If you are a fan of the short 2" Blazer Vane, please note that the turn of the fletch will be much less noticeable.  Even when fletched with a full helical clamp, a short 2" Blazer Vane will appear to have only a slight offset.



Right or Left?

If you choose to go with an offset or helical fletch, the arrow will rotate in flight.  But which way should it rotate?  Right or left?  The answer is, sometimes it matters, sometimes it doesn't.  So here are a few things to think about.

An arrow with a right turn will rotate clockwise (as viewed from the nock) during flight.  An arrow with a left turn will rotate counterclockwise.  So what's the big difference?  With most modern setups ... nothing.  One is as good as the other.  The only major difference is that left-turn (counterclockwise) arrows tend to impact the target and loosen your tips, while right-turn (clockwise) arrows tend to impact the target and tighten your tips.  Otherwise, it really makes no difference.

Nonetheless, the traditional wisdom that RH shooters should shoot a right turn fletch and LH shooters should shoot a left turn fletch still exists.  Unfortunately, this thinking is a leftover rule of thumb from the days before compounds and the center-shot cutaway riser.  It doesn't apply to modern compounds.  But, if you shoot a traditional bow OR you have an old-fashioned flipper or plunger style rest on a non-center-shot riser bow, this is still good advice for achieving the best vane/feather clearance.  If you shoot a modern compound with a bolt-on arrow rest, we suggest you choose a RH turn fletch - as a few broadheads and other arrow components are designed to work best with RH rotation. 



Fletching Size:  How Big to Go?

Most vanes and feathers are available in several different sizes.  The most common are the 3", 4", and 5", with the 4" being the industry standard for most applications.  However, you may decide a little larger or smaller fletch is better for you.  Here are a few things to consider.

Weight:  If you're concerned about your finished arrow weight or your F.O.C. balance (more on this in a moment), it's worth noting that your choice and size of fletching material will have a significant impact on both of those attributes.  Take a look at the chart below to see how much your fletching choice will add to your finished arrow.  Since all of that weight is going to be concentrated in the rear of the arrow, heavy fletching material means a you'll also need more tip weight to maintain a good F.O.C. balance.

Custom Arrow Weight & FOC Simulator
Before you actually order your custom arrows, use this calculator to build a simulated set of arrows - so you'll know what total mass and FOC balance your choices will yield.  Please note:  manufacturer GPI data tends to be rounded to the nearest tenth of a grain.  We've built in some small margins to account for rounding and the mass of adhesives.  So our simulator is going to be very very close.  But please don't hold our feet to the grain here ...

Total Point Weight in Grains:	HELP:  Enter the weight of your arrow tip.  Common tip weights are 75, 85, 90, 100, 110, and 125, with 100 grain tips being the typical choice.
Insert Type: No Insert (for use w/target nibbs) Carbon Express CX Alum Carbon Force CX Alum Easton/Beman HIT Alum. Gold Tip Alum .246 Victory Aluminum Easton/Beman CB Aluminum Easton/Beman CB Vibrake Easton/Beman CM Vibrake Alum. Easton/Beman HIT Brass 50 Easton/Beman HIT Brass 75 Easton HP Aluminum Easton Microlite (Flatlines)	HELP:  Choose your type of arrow insert.  For most applications, the standard .246 aluminum insert is used, however some shafts require specialized inserts.
Nock Adapter: None (for most shafts) Gold Tip .246 Weight Adapter G-Nock Adapter Pin Nock Adapter Carbon Express Maxima Collar	THIS IS NOT COMMON:  Some nocks require collars or adapters so that specialty nocks can be used (usually in special purpose target shafts).  If none, leave at "None."
Nock Type: S Nocks (most common) Pin Nocks TCX Nocks (Carbon Express) Easton Microlite (Flatlines) Easton H Nocks Easton X Nocks Gold Tip Standard .246 Gold Tip LockNock (S/.246) Standard Lumenocks (H) Lumenocks (X) Lumenocks (S/.246) Standard Tracer Nocks (H) Tracer Nocks (X) Tracer Nocks	HELP:  Choose the type of nock installed in your arrow (S, X, H, GT, Lumenocks, etc.).  Do not include optional nock weight here.
Added Nock Weight:	THIS IS NOT COMMON:  Some nocks can be fitted with additional weights to add mass and decrease FOC.  If none, leave at 0.
Arrow Shaft: Beman Bowhunter 300 Beman Bowhunter 340 Beman Bowhunter 400 Beman Bowhunter 500 Beman ICS Camo Hunter 300 Beman ICS Camo Hunter 340 Beman ICS Camo Hunter 400 Beman ICS Camo Hunter 500 Beman ICS Hunter 300 Beman ICS Hunter 340 Beman ICS Hunter 400 Beman ICS Hunter 500 Beman MFX Bone Collector 300 Beman MFX Bone Collector 340 Beman MFX Bone Collector 400 Beman MFX Bone Collector 500 Beman MFX Classic 340 Beman MFX Classic 400 Beman MFX Classic 500 Beman MFX Classic 600 Carbon Express Maxima 150 Carbon Express Maxima 250 Carbon Express Maxima 350 Carbon Express Maxima Hunter 250 Carbon Express Maxima Hunter 350 Carbon Express Maxima Hunter 450 Carbon Express Mutiny 250 Carbon Express Mutiny 350 Carbon Express Piledriver Hunter 250 Carbon Express Piledriver Hunter 350 Carbon Express Piledriver Hunter 450 Carbon Express Predator II 30/50 Carbon Express Predator II 45/60 Carbon Express Predator II 60/75 Carbon Force Bow Madness 200 Carbon Force Bow Madness 300 Carbon Force X-Weave Pro 100 Carbon Force X-Weave Pro 200 Carbon Force X-Weave Pro 300 Easton A/C/C Pro 300 Easton A/C/C Pro 340 Easton A/C/C Pro 390 Easton A/C/C Pro 440 Easton Flatline D.O.A. 340 Easton Flatline D.O.A. 400 Easton Flatline D.O.A. 500 Easton ST Axis 300 Easton ST Axis 340 Easton ST Axis 400 Easton ST Axis 500 Easton ST Axis FMJ Dangerous 250 Easton ST Axis FMJ Dangerous 300 Easton ST Axis Full Metal Jacket 300 Easton ST Axis Full Metal Jacket 340 Easton ST Axis Full Metal Jacket 400 Easton ST Axis Full Metal Jacket 500 Easton ST Axis Realtree APG 300 Easton ST Axis Realtree APG 340 Easton ST Axis Realtree APG 400 Easton ST Axis Realtree APG 500 Easton ST Epic 300 Easton ST Epic 340 Easton ST Epic 400 Easton ST Epic 500 Easton ST Epic Realtree AP 300 Easton ST Epic Realtree AP 340 Easton ST Epic Realtree AP 400 Easton ST Epic Realtree AP 500 Easton ST Excel 300 Easton ST Excel 340 Easton ST Excel 400 Easton ST Excel 500 Gold Tip Expedition Hunter 3555 Gold Tip Expedition Hunter 5575 Gold Tip Expedition Hunter 7595 Gold Tip Expedition Hunter Camo 3555 Gold Tip Expedition Hunter Camo 5575 Gold Tip Expedition Hunter Camo 7595 Gold Tip Pro Hunter 3555 Gold Tip Pro Hunter 5575 Gold Tip Pro Hunter 7595 Gold Tip Pro Hunter Camo 3555 Gold Tip Pro Hunter Camo 5575 Gold Tip Pro Hunter Camo 7595 Gold Tip Traditional 3555 Gold Tip Traditional 5575 Gold Tip Traditional 7595 Gold Tip XT Hunter 3555 Gold Tip XT Hunter 5575 Gold Tip XT Hunter 7595 Gold Tip XT Hunter Camo 3555 Gold Tip XT Hunter Camo 5575 Gold Tip XT Hunter Camo 7595 Victory V-Force V1 350 Victory V-Force V1 400 Victory V-Force V1 500 Victory V-Force V3 350 Victory V-Force V3 400 Victory V-Force V3 500 Victory V-Force V6 350 Victory V-Force V6 400 Victory V-Force V6 500 Victory V-Force V6 600	HELP:  Choose the brand, model, and size of your arrow shafts.  If your arrow shafts is not included here, choose a shaft with the same g.p.i. as your shafts.
Shaft Length: Trimmed Shaft Length 23 23.5 24 24.5 25 25.5 26 26.5 27 27.5 28 28.5 29 29.5 30 30.5 31 31.5 32 32.5	HELP:  Note that the shaft length isn't the same as arrow length (see Chapter 1).  The shaft length will be approximately 1/2" LESS than your finished arrow length.
Fletching Type: 3" Feathers 4" Feathers 5" Feathers 3" Duravanes 4" Duravanes 5" Duravanes 2" Blazer Vanes	HELP:  Scroll back up to review our discussion on fletching types.  Select the type of fletching you prefer to use.
Number of Fletches: 3 4	3 FLETCH IS COMMON:  A 4-fletch arrow is very uncommon.  For the vast majority of applications, just leave this value at 3.
Arrow Weight: Grains              %   (What is NaN?  See below) NOTE:  Most carbon arrow manufacturers recommend an  F.O.C. balance between 7% and 15%.   MYSTERY GLITCH:   If the FOC Calculator returns "NaN", please go back to the Fletching Type box and select 4" Duravanes and click "Calculate FOC" again.  Once "jumpstarted", then you will be able to change your fletching options and recalculate all you would like.  Sorry!  We tried adjusting the flux-capacitor and the phase inducer, but it still didn't fix it.
Chapter 4 Summary: Before moving on, you should be clear on the following: 1.  What are the different type of fletching materials? 2.  What are the pro's and con's for vanes and feathers? 3.  What is the difference in a straight, offset, or helical fletch?  Which is better? 4.  What size fletchings will provide the best stabilization for my particular setup? 5.  What is Front of Center Balance (FOC)? 6.  What is the recommended amount of FOC for proper arrow flight?

OK.  I got it. Move on to the Next Chapter Chapter 5